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They had to borrow $600 for the cash drawer, it was the height
of the 1973 recession, and the cooks quit on opening night. It
was no way to start a new restaurant, especially a Mexican
restaurant in a city that had just discovered Mexican food.
Five months later, on
the verge of bankruptcy and with no money to pay the next months
rent, the owners were desperate.
They conducted a
two-week advertising campaign, Michael Ray says, "Our business
doubled almost overnight."
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It still was a struggle
for a couple of years, but el Azteca, 535 E. State Blvd.,
survived and went on to become one of Fort Wayne's most popular
Mexican Restaurants.
Michael and Juanita Ray are the sole owners now, but they
started el Azteca with her sister and brother-in-law, Paula and
John Rodriguez, who have since divorced.
They first went into
business together about 1970. "Johnny was just back from the
service, and I was going to school, driving a cab and working part
time in a bar on South Calhoun Street," Michael Ray recalls.
When the owner wanted to sell the bar, the two couples pooled
their resources and bought it. It was called Our Place, and they
would later own a second Our Place at Marketplace of Canterbury
from 1979 to 1983. |
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The
Rays met when both worked for Azar's drive-in restaurant next to
South Side High School on South Calhoun Street. She was a senior
at Hoagland High School and he was at North Side High
School. They married in 1968 and honeymooned in Chicago. While dining in a Mexican restaurant there,
they talked
about having a place like it someday.
Juanita Ray worked at
St. Joseph Medical Center for 13 years, working her way up from
dietary aide to the accounting department.
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"I was always
moonlighting as a waitress someplace, too." she says. Her
experience in both areas came in handy when the two couples
joined in their business venture. After
two years at Our Place, they heard The Lighthouse restaurant on
East State Blvd. was for sale and went in to look it over.
"We ended up buying it on contract at the height of the '73
recession." Michael Ray says with a shake in his head. It's
still hard to believe the risk they took. |
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"I'd never do it that
way again," he says. Yet, even through their early struggles,
"there was never any doubt that this is what we wanted to do."
As patrons' palates have
become educated to the varieties and subtleties of Mexican food,
the Rays have changed and expanded their menu. "In the
beginning, you had beef, cheese, beans and rice, and that was
it," Michael Ray says. "For nachos, you had peppers and cheese;
now we have seven or eight different varieties. We'd buy a
5-pound container of sour cream and throw half of it away at the
end of the week; now we use 100 pounds a week." |
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The
current menu is wide-ranging: nine varieties of enchiladas,
nine kinds of regular burritos, eight chimichangas, a dozen
appetizers, plus tacos, tamales, tostadas, salads, desserts,
combination plates and sizzling fajitas. There's also American
fare- steak, shrimp, chicken- and a list of sandwiches.
El Azteca has heart-healthy menu items, planned
under the direction of Parkview Memorial Hospital's Dining With
a Heart program.
"I do most of the
cooking (for the family) at home," he says, "and I also develop
the recipes at home. It's quiet and I have the kitchen to
myself."
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He says most Mexican
food served in this country is Americanized. For one thing, he
points out, it would be greasier in Mexico.
"We use oils and Olive
Oil- no lard at all. It would be all lard in Mexico. Or take our
chicken mole. We make the sauce and serve it over a boneless,
skinless chicken breast. In Mexico, the chicken is pre-broiled
and the pieces are put whole in a pot of sauce and served."
" People used to have
the idea that all Mexican food was spicy hot," Juanita adds,
"but it's not. You can make it as spicy as you want." |
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El Azteca has built a
loyal following. Some people have dined regularly since the
beginning. Even people who move away don't forget. "Not long
ago, a fellow stopped in for the ingredients for two burritos.
He was flying to Florida to visit some former Fort Wayne
residents and taking them as a surprise. And people often pick
up our chips and sauce for people who've moved away." Michael
Ray says. |
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